|
Standing at exactly the right position on the edge you could clearly see a shadow in the mist of the cloud. I initially thought the shadow was of Sue but was told it was in fact of myself, confirmed by waving my arms. By now many more were standing on the edge yet I could only see myself in the cloud. It was a magical and unforgettable experience. The sun has to be lying low, directly behind the object (yourself) standing on an edge looking into the mist. This phenomenon is known as the Brocken spectre, an event only three out of the group had previously witnessed.
Eventually we dragged ourselves away and quickly reached the Pike from where we followed the path to Hopegill Head and then down Coledale Hause to Crag Hill, the highest point of the walk at 839m. Visibility was by now was improving though views were sporadic. Heading towards Sail everyone realised they were on a hard walk and discussions ensued about how Derbyshire miles and Lake District miles aren’t the same. Passing through Scar Crags the view of Causey Pike was stunning and we stopped there for the last break of the day and could now see the route we had followed, Bassenthwaite Lake and Derwent Water.
The path leading down to Stoneycroft was exceedingly hard, unforgiving, relentless and caused aching knees. In fact the road leading to Braithwaite felt soft and spongy in comparison. Leaving Braithwaite village the final stretch was through Woodlands, soft underfoot and a calm contrast to the hills but with a final sting in the tail, a final ascent up to the car park. Those carrying GPS said 11 miles and 5420ft of ascent, my legs confirmed the ascent. An excellent days walking with brilliant if intermittent views but without doubt the highlight was witnessing the Brocken spectre.
At night the group met at Luca’s Italian restaurant for an enjoyable meal and relaxing evening. Peter Wild proposed a well deserved toast on behalf of the group to thank Sue and Ian Weatherley for organising the weekend. The following morning we drove south to meet at Mardale Head at the southern tip of Haweswater. It was a scenic drive from Keswick passing through the Lakeland villages of Yanwath, Askham, Helton and Bampton. The road then followed the east side of Haweswater presenting fine views of the day’s walk to come.
Haweswater is a reservoir caused by flooding the valley to supply drinking water to the Manchester area. During dry summers relics of the sunken village of Mardale can be seen. Taking the path from Mardale Head the route went up Swine, Heron, Eagle, Rough and Riggindale Crags up to High Street, the high point of the walk at 828m. Named after the Roman road which ran from Penrith to Ambleside, High Street was also used as a meeting place for fairs in the 19th century and events such as horse racing, hence racecourse hill. After a short while we forked from High Street and crossed to the next peak of Mardale Ill Bell with views of Blea Water and Small Water Crag. As we swiftly walked to Harter Fell, excellent views of Windermere and Morecambe Bay were ahead. We started to descend and when we traversed the Gatescarth Pass some members followed the path back to Mardale Head. The majority carried on for the final 6 miles of initially tiring uphill and sometimes boggy walking with glimpses to the east of the M6 motorway.
Joining the Old Corpse Road signalled the start of the final stretch back to Mardale Head. The Old Corpse Road was used to take the dead of Mardale to Swindale and on to Shap for burial. We enjoyed brilliant views of Haweswater as we dropped down, a fitting end to the day’s walk. The weather had been kind and the views of the many waters and fells were magnificent, it was all in all a classic Lake District walk. The party exchanged farewells after a brilliant weekend with two excellent walks, each differing in character and weather, and took back their own memorable high spots; speaking for myself, witnessing the Brocken spectre for the first time will be indelibly inscribed.
Rob Stevenson
|
