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The Ramblers - Derbyshire Dales Group

High Tatras

A week in the High Tatras, Slovakia, 2008

The RA Rossendale Group (to which I have close ties) took eighteen people to Madeira for a week’s walking in October 2007. This was so successful that we thought why not do another walking holiday next year? So it was decided to go to the High Tatras in Slovakia with Mountain Paradise.

On arrival at Bratislava our guide and leader Martin met us and took us by coach for the four-hour trip to Stary Smokovec, our base for the week. We arrived at the Hotel Smokovec quite late, but the bedrooms were excellent - modern, en-suite, carpeted and warm. Next morning we woke up to fantastic views of the mountains with blue skies and warm sunshine, followed by a superb buffet breakfast.

We met our leaders at the hotel at 9.30 am in readiness for the short walk to the railway station to catch the narrow gauge TATRA ELECTRIC RAILWAY. (Originally built in 1908, with current rolling stock new in 2000). There was some excitement as we crossed the tracks and boarded the train, for an unknown destination. Eventually we reached STRBSKE PLESO at 10.20, the end of the western line, which is the highest settlement at 1370 m. in the Eastern Carpathian Mountain Range!

We arrived on what appeared to be a large construction site with new buildings going up and old buildings being renovated. A short walk took us to the PLESO (= mountain lake, tarn or moraine). There were beautiful views of the lake, mountains, hotels (one of which will be the Kempinski Grand Hotel, opening March 2009, on the shore of the lake), and two ski jumps. The group split into two, with Martin’s contingent off to the left of the lake, and Patrick’s to the right. Martina’s instructions were to keep to the Yellow Path and we followed a wide forestry road signposted yellow and red. At the Yellow turn-off, a short break was taken which gave Jeannette enough time to describe her research project into finger length and Gary was delighted that his fingers were AOK!

Then we continued onwards and upwards towards the Furkotska Dolina. It was a long climb and three of the group got so carried away in the lead that they missed the Blue signpost to Pod Soliscom. Oh dear!! Only by whistling and shouting and after a twenty-minute delay were the three reprobates brought to heel. They were duly ostracised and castigated, but it did allow Ian T time to eat his picnic. The Blue path would take us to the Chata Pod Solicom at 1830 m. The path went up over very rocky terrain but there were fantastic views to the plains below, and hills in the far distance. Could we see Ukraine or maybe Hungary? On reaching the Chata (mountain cafe hut) the weather was distinctly cooler, with a cold wind. The other group had already arrived and were tucking into garlic or cabbage soup. For some, the goal was to climb up to Predne Solisko at 2117 m. before taking lunch with a few ”shots”€¯ to keep out the cold. The brave ones made it, scrambling to the peak with high winds and even low cloud. After lunch we walked down the ski-slope towards the ski jumps, one 90m the other 120m, which were built, along with the complex and hotel below, for the 1970 FSI Nordic Ski Championships.

Closer to our starting point we passed the four star Patria Hotel where our other leader Patrick had registered all of us in the morning with the Park Authority just in case we might get lost or eaten by a bear. The next train back to Stary Smokovec left at 15.55 so a quick pace was needed to be at the station in time. We were! It had been a lovely day.

Each day was great. We enjoyed fantastic views and excellent walking, usually on clearly marked coded trails, with plenty of ascent and decent and snow on the ground at high elevations beyond the tree line. There was always a Chata (Mountain Hut) at the trail end or crossroads serving good soups and of course beer. We took our evening meals either at the Hotel or in local restaurants. Food was not too exciting, very much Eastern European with broth soups, breaded veal or pork, trout, salads and boiled potatoes, and of course dumplings. It was a good week. Everyone enjoyed the High Tatras. It would be good in the winter too, as there are lots of lifts and cable cars for skiers. There is an airport at Poprad only 20 miles away accessible from Stansted with SkyEurope. Ramblers Holidays have a two-week trip to the area, which flies in to Kracow, Poland, and HF Holidays, new for 2009, has a week in Stary Smokovec again via Kracow.

Peter Aizlewood

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